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Monumental Moments-- Spring 2014, Issue I

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¡Bienvenidos! Arrival in Santiago de los Caballeros, Dominican Republic (January 2)

It seems as if it were just yesterday that our new CIEE Liberal Arts students were arriving for the spring 2014 semester, lugging their suitcases and pressing toward us on-site staff—smiling and holding CIEE signs, of course—through all the other people at the airport who were hugging, kissing, and excitedly greeting friends and relatives in a cacophony of rapid-fire Dominican Spanish, Kreyól, and English.  It was the day after New Years, and while excited to be here, you could also tell that our students were a bit nervous, some more than others.  “Will they like me?  Will I like them?” were the unspoken questions in everyone´s mind about meeting both us and their host families.  “Will I love it here or should I turn around right now and go back home?” are also questions that pass through students´ minds every semester upon arrival. 

By early the next morning, however, as students were dropped off by their host families to board a bus for our first full day of orientation up in the mountains of Jarabacoa at Rancho Baigüate, the students´ smiles were bigger and no longer forced, the nervousness replaced by joy as they found seats and began cheerfully chatting about the delightful afternoon and evening they had spent with their respective host families.  Throughout the morning and early afternoon—with a lunch break to enjoy some delicious Dominican foods—we all discussed how to keep safe and healthy in the Caribbean tropics, basic tips to better understand and accept cultural differences between Dominicans and U.S. Americans, and how to develop and maintain good relationships with their host family members.  Members of PUCMM´s Estudiantes de Apoyo, a volunteer support group of Dominican and Haitian university students, came to speak with our new students about Dominican attitudes toward alcohol and drugs, dating, how to “dress Dominican,” the safe use of public transportation, and other topics of common interest to all university students.  With a little more than hour to spare before returning to Santiago, most took advantage of the beautiful swimming pool just outside our meeting room—later their friends and family members back home surely received emails and Facebook messages about how they went swimming in the bright sunshine and warm temperatures of a typical Dominican day in January.

Throughout the jam-packed week of orientation, students were taken to exchange U.S. dollars for pesos, buy a cell phone, climb up the steps of the Monument to the Heroes of the Restoration for a birds´ eye view of Santiago, and get to know firsthand the most important places in the city as well as how to use public transportation by participating in a CIEE Treasure Hunt.  There were also two more extensive sessions on cultural adaptation, an-depth overview of the classes available this semester (held the day before class registration) and how former students had ranked said classes, a presentation detailing all of the extra-curricular CIEE activities planned for the semester, a tour of the campus, and a full-day trip to the Capital, where students enjoyed an historical walking tour of the Colonial Zone, had time to eat and explore, and visited the ruins of some of the earliest sugarcane plantations in the Caribbean. They did so much more, including learning the basic steps of merengue, bachata, and salsa, which is something everyone should know in order to enjoy life if Santiago.    Of course, orientation also covered those “must do” things like taking language-level exams and registering for classes, which began on Monday, January 13. 



For the first Co-Pay Trip this semester—for which we also invite the Estudiantes de Apoyo (PUCMM volunteer students), CIEE Teach Abroad professors, and PUCMM professors who work with our students—the students chose Playa Ensenada and Cayo Arena. Every semester it´s one of the students´ favorite elective trips. The beach is located in an isolated region of the northwestern coast, and relatively few foreign tourists frequent its shores, making it an authentic Dominican beach experience.  For the nature buffs interested in the ecology of the region, it is surrounded by mangrove swamps that provide refuge to protected manatees and the occasional school of dolphins.  The boat ride to snorkel off Cayo Arena—a small, reef-encircled strip of sand that rises (barely) above the waves—costs extra, but most of the students chose to snorkel there and were glad that they did, for it is an amazing experience, as one of our students, Eliza Kenney (Hamilton College) shared in her personal blog:

Today, I didn’t have to find a tiny beautiful moment, because the entire day was filled with them. Today, I went snorkeling and didn’t have a panic attack–sea urchins and I are still not friends, but at least now we have a mutual understanding. I ate a fried fish that still had all the bones and eyes and fins and teeth. I rode 25 minutes on a crazy boat ride (my butt is literally bruised) to the most beautiful island/sandbar that I ever could have dreamed of.

Today, it hit me straight up in the face: I am living in paradise for the next three months. Maybe every day won’t be spent next to crystal clear, indescribably turquoise water, soaking in the sun, and conquering fears. Actually, I hope that every day isn’t like that, because I’m sunburned as hell. But this city, this country, every bit and part of it, can be paradise if I make it so.



Just before Guantánamo in Cuba became the U.S. military base that would guard the U.S.´s “back yard,” there were plans to establish the military base on the Samaná Peninsula in northeastern Dominican Republic.  In part, this was because of the settlement of the peninsula in the 1820s by several hundred families of former African American slaves, who had run to freedom up the Underground Railroad to Philadelphia, then accepted an invitation from the President of the Republic of Haiti (who ruled the entire island from 1822-1844) to settle here instead of going to Liberia.  Even today, many of Samana´s residents still speak English as a native language (along with Spanish) and have the reputation of being hard working Protestants.

It´s not the unusual history and culture, however, that bring most of the tens of thousands of tourists to Samaná every year—it´s the tropical, relatively unspoiled paradise that Samaná evokes, with its towering mountains, turquoise bay and warm Atlantic waters, white sand beaches, more gently swaying coconut palms that you can possibly ever count, its friendly residents, and its fast-growing list of fabulous resorts and unique bed and breakfast spots.

The new “Bulevard Atlantico” that skirts the peninsula´s Atlantic Coast is virgin territory right now, but it won´t be long before tourism converts it to end-to-end resorts.  That´s why our students particularly enjoy our excursion here—we get to enjoy swimming in the tropical Atlantic, boating on the Samaná Bay, seeing the abundant bird life and pictograph-filled caves in nearby Los Haitises National Park, and hiking up to Salto El Limón, one of the most beautiful waterfalls on the island, while staying at a delightful aparta-hotel on the beach in Las Terrenas.  What a stunning weekend!  None of us ever wants to come back to his or her studies or work in the CIEE Study Center… but Samaná remains as a delightful dream, as a destination that everyone who comes back to visit dreams of going back to. 



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"the concho experience" by Taylor, Kristen and Britney

At around the one month point many students are feeling well acclimatized, while others may be at a critical point and could go into culture shock.  For this reason we unite students as the final orientation activity to express how their experience has been, vent on what challenges they have been going through, and laugh about it all through the use of improvised skits. 

HERMANAS MIRABAL MUSEUM (February 21) Service Learning and Liberal Arts students at the Mirabal Sisters Museum

This semester we received the very unfortunate news that Dedé Mirabal—the sole surviving sister of the four Mirabal heroines—passed away in early February, only a few weeks before our Service Learning and Liberal Arts programs joined together to visit the museum dedicated to them. 

We have enjoyed many years visiting the museum and doña Dedé, who has always received students and their questions with open arms and an open heart.  We were in a somber mood, therefore, when our staff and students arrived this semester at the Hermanas Mirabal Museum in Hermanas Mirabal Province.  Students took the house-museum tour, which houses relics from the girls´ childhood and revolutionary lives—those lives were cut short when Rafael Leónidas Trujillo’s henchmen ordered Patria, Minerva, and María Teresa beaten to death with clubs on November 25, 1961, because they were trying to tear down his increasingly violent 30-year-long dictatorship.  Afterwards, we visited the Ecoparque de la Paz (Peace Ecopark),a property that was donated to the local municipality by the late Dedé Mirabal.

The United Nations General Assembly dedicated November 25th as The International Day for the Elimination of Violence Against Women in honor of the Hermanas Mirabal.

Reflections from the Seminar on Living and Learning in Santiago, Dominican Republic

A two credit course that explores the dimensions of culture and promotes reflection on intercultural misunderstandings.

“On Piropos (Cat Calls)” by Shannon Lee, Kenyon College

As for other students…just go for it. In order to acquire cultural literacy, you must actively participate, which means acting and reacting to the culture and people. Sometimes there are people passing and they say a quick piropo and you never see them again. In my case and possibly future cases, these were people I saw frequently as I walked to class. It just made the walk awkward by ignoring them. That uncomfortable and awkward feeling should have called my attention right away, but I was unknowingly put in a learning zone.

“On Relationships and Culture,” by Taylor Anne-Esparza, Occidental College

…My advice to future students and to myself as well, is to not sit around and wait for the answers to just appear before you, because they won’t. As soon as you begin to realize a pattern occurring in relation to a cultural aspect that you do not understand, investigate and ask around. Do not just let it pass you by as another cultural difference you don’t understand.”


Three-day Excursion to Constanza (March 7-9)

You know you´re no longer in Santiago when you climb up, up, up the narrow serpentine road, with misty views of the Cibao Valley far below.  Then suddenly (well, an hour or so later) the bus climbs one last ridge and you are surrounded by myriad cloud-wrapped peaks that include Pico Duarte, which at over 10,000 feet is the tallest mountain in the Caribbean.  Then we descend a bit into a circular green valley that is also surrounded by mountain peaks—the Valley of Constanza, formed millions of years ago by a giant meteor strike.  Most of the valley´s color in late September comes from uncountable row after row of giant blue-green cabbages that spread upwards from the valley floor. 

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On Friday morning, we departed extra early to arrive at the Ebano Verde nature preserve for a hike down the one of the Central Mountain Range´s protected ecological areas, and the only place known to have the Green Magnolia. We set off along with our two trailblazing tour guides for the next two and a half hours, crossing rivers and streams, stopping at forest ranger stations, and learning about the exotic flora such as carnivorous plants, mosses, ferns, and the like.  When we finally arrived at trails end, most were exhausted and eager to hop back on the bus and head up for lunch at our hotel.

It didn´t take long to arrive at the Alto Cerro(“High Land”) Hotel, where we checked-in and devoured a buffet lunch.  Later that afternoon, we took a guided bus tour throughout the Valley of Constanza to see the industrial-agricultural installations as well as historical-cultural sites such as the ruins of Dictator Trujillo’s Hotel Nueva Suiza, and the best candy shops in the region. 

On Saturday we awoke to a delicious buffet breakfast, then took a mountain ride in Safari trucks into the green pine forests surrounding Aguas Blancas, the highest waterfall in the Caribbean.  After hiking up the side of the falls, we returned to the lower basin, where some of the students and CIEE Teach professors who accompanied us were adventurous enough to dive in and swim in the frigid waters swirling beneath the falls.  We returned that night to enjoy a BBQ dinner and roast s´mores over a bonfire.  Sunday was a free day in which some visited the town´s central market; a few rode horses at the hotel, while others rested up leisurely after the previous days´ strenuous activities.



This semester’s volunteer rural retreat was held in the mountain towns of Pedro García and Tubagua, working alongside Peace Corps Volunteers (PCVs) and local NGOs to create ecotouristic attractions in the rural countryside.  Our project was constructing a panoramic viewing area that overlooks the northern coast from the touristic highway along the mountain ridge. Image (1)

On Friday morning, we arrived in Pedro Garcia, met the leaders of the community development agency, and then visited their latest ecotourism attraction—a guided hike through a coffee plantation.  While we walked, we were given the history of this region that, due to agricultural plagues in the 1990s, abandoned its traditional coffee industry in favor of livestock farming. This has wreaked havoc on the local ecosystem and now the guided hike is among the many efforts to educate the public and locals in the hopes of returning to the permaculture practices of the modern coffee plantation. Inside the coffee factory

After our hike, we shuttled to the worksite, which was 45 minutes down the road, and began clearing the construction site for the viewing area.  Many of the students grabbed machetes and learned how to be a human lawnmower, while others got to work with shovels and picks, clearing away the undergrowth.  By Friday evening, we had worked up a healthy appetite. Upon returning to Pedro Garcia, we all chowed down on a delicious asopao (soupy rice).  Image

Saturday was our main work day, so we left early for the worksite and got our hands dirty once more while picking, shoveling, and reshaping the earth.  We even chopped down a few rotted palm trees (Timber….!!!), which we soon learned were formerly a safe haven for both a snake and a tarantula.  After a grueling day of manual labor, during which we made great advances, we discovered there was still a hefty task ahead of us.

On Sunday morning, we leveled earth and laid down decorative gravel.  By the time we wrapped up at midday, we were all eager to join with the locals and PCVs at the Tubagua Ecolodge, where we gobbled up some delicious spaghetti before taking off down the mountain for Santiago.


The border region that separates the Dominican Republic and the Republic of Haiti has been rife with bloodshed and fighting between the two poor countries that share the same small island for several centuries. Today the fighting is mostly over scarce resources:  food, jobs, and land and materials to establish a home, no matter how humble. Every Friday and Monday in the border town of Dajabón, however, the “fight” is for Haitians to see how many times they can cross the border between 8 AM and 3 PM, for those are the two days of the week when Haitians can cross the border free of charge to sell their wares on the Dominican side—donated shoes, purses, clothing, and domestic items, Haitian rum, homegrown garlic…. Then they spend the money from what they´ve sold to buy foods that are not available in Haiti. 

Somewhere around $22 million pesos (approximately US$512,000) per day changes hands on each of the two weekly market days, much of it illegally to pay bribes for those who cross the border earlier than 8 AM (on foot through the river).  This is colloquially called “paying the wet Customs Duty” as opposed to the official “dry” Customs Duty in the Dominican government offices.

Our students were able to join the human stream crossing to the middle of the bridge that spans the aptly named Río Masacre that delineates the border.  “Watch out!” we constantly screamed, for the bridge is jam packed with mostly barefoot porters, both male and female, pushing and pulling carts and wheelbarrows, and carrying impossibly large parcels on top of their heads while frantically trying to make as many trips as possible, for each trip means more money.  They have no time to stop and let our students pass by, for they and their families are desperately hungry. 

After crossing the bridge as far as we could go—to the division between the two republics—we all had about an hour and a half to tour the market itself, with its mountains of merchandise of all kinds and vendors trying to out yell each other to attract our attention.  Why?  Because we stand out and look like we might have money to spend.

On the way home, we went to Monte Cristi, still in the border region, but to the north of Dajabón, to have lunch in a restaurant where the anti-Trujillo revolutionary movement used to meet, for which the town´s port was closed and still is.  Afterward we saw the region´s salt evaporation pens, and swam at the stunningly beautiful but isolated Playa Detrás del Morro—the Beach Behind the Morro (Columbus named it that because the dominant mountain there reminded him of a Moorish war tent).



Our students have frequently told us that they are very glad we make them attend a Return to the U.S.A. Workshop, which includes an intensive session on Reverse Culture Shock, since it hits them harder than Culture Shock upon arrival in the Dominican Republic.  What in the world!?!  OK, it sounds strange, but it´s very true--upon arrival, everyone is expecting to have some cultural shocks, but they are NOT expecting to have cultural shock upon their return home.  Furthermore, there is little compassion from friends and family members for those who do suffer Reverse Culture Shock.  This workshop helps our students recognize what is happening and get through it much faster.  After the workshop, everyone pitches in to complete setting up for our incredible Fiesta de Despedida (Going Away Party). 

This semester was the very first time that students and professors from all of our CIEE Santiago programs came together to celebrate a very busy and change-filled, but nonetheless successful semester together with our now-famous Fiesta de Despedida:  Liberal Arts, Service Learning, Gap Year Abroad, and Teach Abroad at PUCMM.  Students publically thanked their professors at both PUCMM and ALPI, the administrators at both institutions, the communities in which they had worked, their host families, the Estudiantes de Apoyo at PUCMM (volunteer students), our faithful drivers, and of course their CIEE on-site staff members for an intensive but fun and goal-fulfilling experience.  Students also acted as the evening´s hosts and entertainers… and everyone enjoyed together a fabulous dinner and dancing to the move-your-feet rhythms of merengue, bachata, salsa, and reggatón.




Monumental Moments-- Fall 2013, Issue I

STI DR banner Liberal Arts, GAP Year and PUCMM students stop for a quick photo atop the Divino Niño Monument in Constanza, Photo by Ryan Bowen¡BIENVENIDOS!  Students for F2013 Semester Arrived August 20th Ready to go on the treasure hunt "busqueda de tesoro", Photo by Jose Tejada  

As always, there was lots of excitement combined with both nervous and joyous smiles when the newly-arrived students for fall semester 2013´s Liberal Arts program at PUCMM in Santiago de los Caballeros met their host families on Tuesday, August 20th… but by the next morning, most were happily chatting about the warm acceptance by their new families.  
We spent the first day of orientation up in the mountains of Jarabacoa at Rancho Baiguate, where half a dozen of PUCMM´s Estudiantes de Apoyo (a volunteer support group) and Director of International Students met us.  Throughout the morning and early afternoon--with a lunch break to enjoy some delicious Dominican foods--students learned how to keep safe and healthy in the Caribbean tropics, basic tips to combat culture shock and cultural differences between Dominicans and U.S. Americans, and how to develop good relationships with their host families.  Afterwards, students enjoyed a dip in the swimming pool, explored the eco-trails, and enjoyed the playground equipment. Nisha checking out a daycare center to do volunteer service, Photo by Jose

Throughout the week of orientation, students got to exchange U.S. dollars for pesos, buy a cell phone, climb up the steps of the Monument to the Heroes of the Restoration, got to know firsthand the City of Santiago, how to use public transportation, dance the basic steps of merengue, bachata, and salsa…  and so much more!  There were two more extensive sessions on cultural adaptation, an-depth overview of the classes available this fall and how former students had ranked them, a presentation explaining all of the extra-curricular CIEE activities planned for the semester, a tour of the campus, and a day trip to the Capital, where students had an historical walking tour of the Colonial Zone and visited the ruins of one of the earliest sugarcane plantations in the Caribbean.  Of course, orientation also covers those “must do” things like taking language-level exams and registering for classes.  Wednesday, August 28th was a free day, and the following day classes began at PUCMM.

 First CIEE Co-Pay Trip of the Semester—Playa Ensenada & Cayo Arena (September 8)En route to Cayo Arena, Photo by Jose Tejada

Every semester students vote on which two from a list of 20 or so different Co-Pay Trips they´d like to make—these trips are to places of historical, ecological, or cultural interest that are nearly impossible to get to without private transportation.  CIEE pays for the transportation and any guiding or entrance fees, and students bring or buy their own food and beverages.  For the first Co-Pay Trip this semester—for which we also invite the Estudiantes de Apoyo and PUCMM professors who work with our students—the students chose Playa Ensenada and Cayo Arena.  

Dinita, Scarlett and Lindsay at Playa Ensenada, Photo by Ryan's GoProIn an isolated region of the northwestern coast, this beach, where you rarely find any tourists, is ringed by mangrove swamps that are home to protected manatees and the occasional school of dolphins.  The boat ride to snorkel off Cayo Arena—a small, reef-encircled strip of sand that rises (barely) above the waves—costs extra, but most of the students chose to snorkel there and were glad that they did, for it is an amazing experience.Annie and Kassandra at playa Ensenada, Photo by Ryan Bowen  

  Rural Weekend Work Retreat  (September 20-22)

Group with Peace Corps volunteers and community members in front of the worksite, Photo by RyanThis semester’s volunteer rural retreat took to us back to the beloved town of La Solapa, nestled in the hills of the province of Altamira.  Over the past two years, CIEE student groups have served the residents of La Solapa by working alongside Peace Corps Volunteers (PCVs) on projects related to hygiene and potable water. The decision for this semester’s project (and every semester) was up to the community members to decide.  The community association decided that their small rented pharmacy should be moved to a new location, where they had been given land on which our students and community members could construct a new building together.  This met a major need—reducing the cost of maintaining an inexpensive supply of medicine for local residents.


Our weekend began with a brief introduction to the community members, then a tour of the community, hiking through a woodsy trail to visit the first aqueduct project that CIEE students built in 2012.  That evening we enjoyed some hearty country cooking: fresh vegetables, plantains, salami, fried eggs, and fried cheese!building blocks with the community, Photo by Jose

 On Saturday the construction commenced bright and early at 8:00 a.m., as some students cut out the foundation from the hard packed earth, and others sawed steel rebar to be used in the reinforced-concrete base of the building.  Once the perimeter trench was finished, the rebar was placed, and it was time for the mezcla (prepared wet cement mix) to be laid.  Soon thereafter we began laying cinder blocks—the primary construction material in the D.R.  It only took a few moments for us to realize how surprisingly difficult block laying can be…at first we struggled to get enough mortar, then failed to set the blocks level, then were told we were wasting too much cement.  After enough hiccups in the process, we left much of the block laying to the local experts and focused our group’s attention on preparing the cement mixture.  Suffice it to say, we all came away with a newfound appreciation for the painstaking process of cement construction. After sunset we cleaned up, ate another hearty starch-filled dinner, and then walked under the moonlight to the town’s discoteca to celebrate after a hard day’s work.  We danced away as the electricity came in starts and spurts; when the power went fully out, the disco owner fired up his 4x4 truck and blasted bachata rhythms from his vehicle’s radio to keep the party rocking.Dinita and Gabbie with the local girls, Photo by Annie CavanaughOn Sunday morning we continued to assist in the building process.  We wrapped it up at midday and joined together with the locals and PCVs who had housed us and gobbled up some delicious sancocho—a Dominican stew chock full of tuberous vegetables, plantains, chicken, and squash, all served over white rice with plenty of ripe avocado. Oh, and don’t forget the hot sauce!  After eating and the hard day’s work, nearly all the students slept throughout the entire ride back to Santiago. Evan chats with one of the younger residents of La Solapa, Photo by Annie Cavanaugh

One-Month-in-the-Country Meeting (September 23)

Students acting skits of how to navigate public transportation, Photo by Jose Tejada
  By the time students have been in Santiago for a month, most are starting to settle in and feel far more comfortable than when they first arrived—but it´s also when the “honeymoon period” wears off and a few students begin to have trouble accepting some of the inevitable socio-cultural adjustments that must be made.  To deal with the problems that some students may be experiencing, we hold this two-hour meeting every semester, where students are broken into small groups, each of which is assigned one of the common situations that may be problematical.  They prepare short skits and act out the situations, which are catalysts for an interactive discussion about each of the topics.  It´s a fun meeting and also very cathartic.  

LIVING HISTORY!  Hermanas Mirabal Museum and Ojos de Agua (September 27)Museo de las Hermanas Mirabal, Photo by Ryan

The Hermanas Mirabal are not only heroines in the Dominican Republic, but around the world.  The memory of Patria, Minerva, and María Teresa Mirabal´s fight for a democratic government, as well as the memory of their bloody assassination on November 25, 1960, by orders of the dictator Rafael Leónidas Trujillo, are honored every year on November 25, the International Day for the Elimination of Violence Against Women.  CIEE took our students to tour the museum just outside Salcedo that is dedicated to them and where their tombs are, as well as to the home where they grew up in the tiny pueblo of Ojos de Agua.  Today, there is a park across the street commemorating their lives and their deaths, and a brand new ecological walk.  Dedé Mirabal lives there to this day, the only surviving Mirabal sister—she raised her own son and all of her sisters´ children.  Normally she is available to speak with our students about her life and that of her sisters; unfortunately, this semester she was out of town. 

CIEE Co-Pay Trip #2:  Río Gurabo (October 4)

Crossing Rio Gurabo en route to the charco, Photo by JoseAfter a 45-minute hike up the Gurabo River, we arrived at the site known as Charco de los Indios—a series of enchanting natural pools descending from small rapids , dominated by the ruins of a giant, 50-feet-high sculpture in the background. This Cara Gigantesca (Giant Face) carved out of the side of a mountain is believed to be the only monumental artifact left by the indigenous population anywhere in the Caribbean.  Students swam in the pools, explored the canyon, climbed to the statue’s head, and—before heading back downstream—sat by the pools to enjoy a picnic lunch.  On our way back to Santiago, we stopped to unearth marine fossils from the hilly roadside, evidence of prehistoric geological activity. 

En route to the river, Photo by Jose
We also stopped to tour a casabe factory, where bitter yucca root is processed and turned into the round tortilla-like bread that was a staple in the diet of the pre-Columbian indigenous population and is still enjoyed to this day! Casabe Factory tour by Jose



REFRESHING!  Three-day Excursion to the Valley of Constanza (October 11-13)

August in the Dominican Republic is hot, and September is even hotter.  Temperatures in the low to mid-90s with high humidity feel good at first, but after five solid weeks of it, students who are accustomed to North American autumns are ready for the cool mountain nights and mornings in Constanza, the highest altitude city in the Caribbean. Guided by Miguel Luna (left) the group hikes up high into the hillas above the valley, by RyanYou know you´re no longer in Santiago when the bus climbs up, up, up the narrow serpentine road, with misty views of the Cibao Valley far below.  Then suddenly (well, an hour or so later) the bus climbs one last ridge and you are surrounded by myriad cloud-wrapped peaks that include Pico Duarte, which at over 10,000 feet is the tallest mountain in the Caribbean.  Then we descend a bit into a circular green valley that is also surrounded by mountain peaks—the Valley of Constanza, formed millions of years ago by a giant meteor strike.  Most of the valley´s color in late September comes from uncountable row after row of giant blue-green cabbages that spread upwards from the valley floor.  We stay at the Alto Cerro (“High Land”) Hotel, and students opted on Friday afternoon to hike to one of the tallest peaks in the valley of Constanza, a site in which a monument has been erected to the Divino Niño (Baby Jesus).   Nature blessed us with a beautiful rainbow--and then a downpour of rain for the hike down the mountain.Rainbow over the valley, by Ryan

Saturday we awoke to a delicious buffet breakfast, then we all rode in Safari trucks, this time up into the green pine forest surrounding Aguas Blancas, the highest waterfall in the Caribbean.  (Yes, this whole weekend was filled with record heights!)  Some of the students were intrepid enough to brave swimming in the frigid waters swirling beneath the falls.  That night, there was a BBQ and bonfire—complete with s’mores!  Sunday morning was free time that started out with another buffet breakfast and activity choices that included horseback riding, a ride to the town´s vegetable and flea markets, a paragliding trip taking off from a nearby peak and descending into the valley of Constanza (for the adrenaline junkies among us), sleeping in, or doing homework.  Then it was back to the heat of the lowlands after lunch, but somehow the heat always seems easier to take after a refreshing weekend in the mountains. The Takeoff by Gabby



Monumental Moments-- Spring 2013, Issue II

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Monumental Moments

Constanza Excursion—CIEE Reaching for the Heights! 

Constanza aguas blancas hike
Hiking up to the top of Aguas Blancas waterfall, tallest waterfall in the entire Caribbean

The weekend of March 8-10 provided students with quite a change from urban Santiago de los Caballeros.  We piled into two buses and headed up, up, up the mountains of the Cordillera Central—high enough to see Pico Duarte, the tallest mountain in all the Caribbean, off to the northwest—to the Valley of Constanza, where the highest-elevation city in the Caribbean lies surrounded by a patchwork quilt of colors.  Up close, those colors are vast fields of strawberries, cabbages, carrots, potatoes, celery, broccoli, and other cool-weather vegetables, plus cultivated flowers of all kinds.

Hiking above the valley of Constanza, what a goofy bunch!
            We ate a delicious lunch at our Hotel Alto Cerro before splitting up into two groups.  The more adventurous of the two headed off with Ryan and a local guide to hike up the mountains beyond our hotel—they returned tired, but smiling widely over their accomplishment.  Those who are not as fond of hiking enjoyed a walking tour of part of the largest flower gardens in the region with Lynne and one of the company´s engineers, although we couldn´t explore all seven levels, which would have taken days of travel up, down, and around the surrounding mountains.  Afterward, we drove a little further so the students could explore the ruins of the Nueva Suiza Hotel, which was built under Trujillo´s orders in the 1950s as a super-deluxe hideaway for himself, his best buddies, and their mistresses.  

Safari trucks en route to Aguas Blancas

            Saturday, we all boarded what the Dominicans call “Jeep Safaris”—sturdy trucks with bench seats—to drive up the mountain to the tallest waterfalls in the Caribbean, Aguas Blancas.  A new hiking trail was just constructed last semester by a Dominican Corps of Forestry Engineers.  The views from up there were incredible!   Yasmine and Douglas jump Aguas BlancasThen we hiked back down to the lower level for a snack and so that brave souls could jump into and swim in the frigid waters at the foot of the falls.  That night, we all enjoyed a delicious BBQ and bonfire—with some smores, of course—behind the hotel.  Sunday was a free day before heading back down to Santiago.

To Market, To Market:  Day Trip to Dajabón and Monte Cristi

Dajabon Market by Doug Pentland
Couriers rush their wares back and forth all day long at the market.

On Friday, March 22, all of our students enrolled in the “Dominican-Haitian Relations” class, plus all others who wished to come along—and most did!—headed northwest to the border region at Dajabón and Ouanaminthe, the towns on either side of the Dominican-Haitian border.  Every Friday and Monday an event takes place that attracts thousands of people and millions of dollars—the “free market,” which isn´t really free, since only Haitians can cross over the bridge between the two republics (Dominicans and other foreigners must buy visas if they want to go over to the Haitian side) and Haitians must pay high customs taxes both on the products they bring to the D.R. to sell (mainly donated clothing, shoes, and purses that foreigners collect in clothing drives) and the desperately needed products that they buy on the Dominican side of the border to feed their hungry people.  There´s an informative class about the region´s history and economy aboard the bus, but the most educational part of the trip is seeing the seething masses buying, selling, and moving precariously overloaded carts and wheelbarrows back and forth over the bridge—or carrying towering packages on their heads. 

Playa Detras del Morro

Afterward, we enjoyed a buffet lunch in Monte Cristi and a refreshing swim at one of the most secluded and beautiful beaches in the country, the Playa Detrás del Morro in the nearby national park.



Rural Work Retreat #2 April 5-7

One of three latrines built over the weekend
Getting outside of your element is one of the most effective means to encourage growth, learning, and reflection. On the last weekend before final exams, half of our students volunteered to spend their time very much outside their normal element--doing hard labor in an extremely remote rural town called Dajao. The town was accessible only by taking a 4x4 vehicle or a motorcycle one hour into the mountains near the Haitian border. Working in collaboration with a local Peace Corps Volunteer couple, Scott and Meaghan, our service project involved building three latrine systems, one each in three of the town´s most needed areas. Some students spent the weekend digging out deep holes, and laying rock and mortar, while others mixed cement, bent rebar, sawed wood, and hammered throughout the day.

Violet showin some muscle
On the second day, we split into two separate teams to complete the remaining work, only to be met with torrential downpours all afternoon. Some students braved the rain and kept working despite the downfalls. It was a grueling, wet, and muddy way to spend the afternoon, but that night’s dinner and subsequent reflection and conversation time was nonetheless excellent.

Building latrines in Dajao, Dominican Republic

Sunday morning, most of us woke up early to the tune of the roosters´ crowing. After downing hot chocolate, coffee, and bread for breakfast, we once again split up into two groups to finish the two remaining latrines. By mid-morning, we had made enough progress to wrap up the project.  We packed  ourselves into the bed of a Daihatsu pickup truck and bid adieu to our new friends in Dajao. The ride back included time to take a refreshing bath in a river before meeting the bus that took us back to Santiago. 

Retiro de Trabajo packing up

Celebrating another Successful Semester with CIEE Liberal Arts  

Group at antillana-Sarah Babb

On Friday, April 12, CIEE Liberal Arts celebrated the ending of another successful semester with our obligatory Return to the U.S.A. Workshop for students, which deals with Reverse Culture Shock.  Then everyone pitched in to finish preparations for our Fiesta de Despedida, attended by all our current students, some former students who were here visiting, our host family members, PUCMM professors and administrators, administrators from PUCMM´s Office of International Students, the university´s volunteer Estudiantes de Apoyo, our wonderful drivers… and of course, the local on-site staff and their families.  Naysha (St. John Fisher College) and Douglas (Occidental College) were our gracious hosts, and student volunteers entertained us magnificently:  Sarah Buente (University of Evansville) sang a delightful solo in Spanish, Dan (Hope College) played his ukulele and sang a lively number, and Hannah (George Washington University) surprised everyone with her super-dynamic modern-dance exhibition, paired with our CIEE-PUCMM Intern, José. 

Despedida dance-sarah staples
The entire “Dominican Dance and Folklore” class showed off what they´d learned over the semester, and Abi (Lewis & Clark College) put together a nostalgic presentation of photos from all the semester´s activities, set to music, of course.  After dinner, everyone—students, host family members young and old alike, drivers, professors, staff—danced and danced.  What a great way to celebrate both our individual and group successes, including all our new friendships!

Caribbean Connections:  Folkloric Music and Dance

-- by Daniel Schriemer (Hope College)

Dominican folklore

            It’s always good to have connections--this is one fact that’s been reinforced for me over and over this semester in the Dominican Republic. Thanks to our connections with the CIEE staff, some of my friends and I were able to obtain free tickets to an event at the Gran Teatro del Cibao, a presentation called “Caribbean Folkloric Music and Dance in the Era of Globalization.” The presentation featured individuals and groups from various countries demonstrating their unique music and dance in an unmistakably lively Caribbean fashion. I was, however, surprised by how the term “Caribbean” was used for this event. There were performers from the Dominican Republic, Haiti,  and other countries traditionally considered to be Caribbean, but more peripheral areas such as Colombia and the Yucatán Peninsula of Mexico were also represented. I had no idea the Caribbean had such a wide cultural influence. My personal favorite part of the night was watching a folkloric dance group from right here in Santiago. Our dance professor from this semester, José Espinal, was one of the dancers, so it was that much more exciting for us. He’s got some incredible moves! The performance as a whole was very entertaining, and I’m glad that so many of us could go and experience it all for free!

How to Really Help Dominican Students Succeed Academically

—by Olivia Corya (Indiana University)


Here´s an abbreviated version of Olivia´s final assignment for her CIEE “Living and Learning in Santiago” class, which clearly shows how much she has come to understand and accept cultural difference during her immersion semester with CIEE Liberal Arts.)

            I volunteered weekly at a home for orphaned children run by nuns, working with two teenaged girls. My overarching goal was to raise their self-esteem and motivate them to reach their full potential. With this in mind, I asked each of them to prepare a presentation about “What it’s like in the Dominican Republic,” and explained that the purpose of the assignment was to give them practice with public speaking and to share their culture with me…. A week later, they showed me a single typed piece of paper filled with economic and political facts about the Dominican Republic (in terms that the girls didn´t even understand) that one of the nuns had printed off the Internet for them.

The incident frustrated me.  I put in a lot of effort coming up with ideas each week to motivate the girls and to teach them good work habits, and having the nun do their work for them defeated the purpose of both goals. But this incident did motivate me to redouble my efforts to understand their previous educational experiences—and my own. 

I now understand that my frustration arose from a clash of cultural values rooted in the U.S. American value of individualism and the Dominican value of communitarianism. I am very much a product of a society where, from a very young age, citizens are taught to practically worship the institution of the individual. We are told that we can each pick ourselves up by our bootstraps and achieve the American dream (which in itself is, of course, very individualistic), that we are each unique and should celebrate our individual identities, etc. Part of this high importance placed on individualism is the idea that in school and work, a person’s success should depend on the merit of his or her own efforts.

This is a completely different reality from the one in which the girls I tutored live. They were born in a communitarian society, where a person’s success depends as much on their relationships with other people as it does their own effort. Not only is helping one’s fellow students or coworkers accepted to a degree that looks like cheating to the untrained U.S. American eye, but this communitarian-based value is so strong that doing so is encouraged. People are supposed to help each other because it’s the “right thing to do,” just as in the U.S. the “right thing to do” in academic situations is to make everyone do their own work.

As a U.S. American, the value of individualism has been engrained within me since the day of my birth, and I do firmly believe in the benefits of doing one’s own work, thus I was upset that the girls were missing out on important lessons and growth opportunities by letting the nun do their work for them.  Also, I am not yet advanced enough along the intercultural understanding spectrum to be able to completely shed my cultural biases, so there’s not much I can do about believing in the benefits of doing one’s own work. What has changed for me, however, since this incident occurred is my initial perception that the girls were being lazy and not taking their homework seriously. This wasn’t the case. They were simply doing their homework in the way their culture has taught them is appropriate. Understanding this cultural difference has taken away much of my initial frustration.

The incident also makes more sense when I think about it through the cultural literacy lens. I didn’t understand why a good person—a nun!—would be complicit in allowing the girls to slack off their homework assignment. Understanding that she was helping them because she thought it was the right thing to do makes me feel much more comfortable about my relationship with her, and shows me that she doesn’t disrespect me and the volunteer work I do, which is what I had feared.

            The other cultural value that clashed in this incident relates to perceptions about authority. In the United States, we prize questioning authority, and in this country, they prize following it. This basic difference explains why the girls thought they were doing a great job by reading off statistics from an authoritative source, and why I thought they were doing an abysmal job by doing that exact thing. I hadn’t wanted them to tell me what experts said about the Dominican Republic—I wanted them to be the experts! I wanted them to reflect on their own experiences. I wanted them to think, to analyze, to create, and they had simply regurgitated.

            Yet to the girls, what I had asked them to do seemed so ridiculous that they didn’t even know how to interpret it, and so they tweaked the assignment to fit what they were familiar with. To succeed in school here, they are asked to cite authoritative figures, not to think for themselves. It would be a silly embarrassment for them to “research” their country by simply reflecting on their own experiences! So instead, they did what normally impresses their teachers and earns them good grades, which is finding an official-looking source and presenting the information without adding unnecessary personal opinions, which would have just diminished the authority of their research.

The girls were not, as I initially assumed, trying to take a shortcut. I really believe they thought something along the lines of, “There’s no way she actually wants us to just say what we think about this country, because no one’s ever asked us to do anything like that before! We must not have understood her. We’ll just find out what important people say about this subject and do the project like we usually do school work.”

Understanding how mine and the girls’ cultural values regarding authority differ greatly eased my frustration with the incident.

My mistake was forgetting how different the U.S. American and Dominican educational systems are. A month ago, I believed the solution should have been for me to have more clearly explained the requirements and purpose of the assignment to the girls before setting them loose to do it. I now believe that that would have been a pretty poor solution. Since then I shaped my assignments to be simultaneously challenging for them and more familiar to them in format. Although I genuinely believe (and yes, I’m aware of my cultural bias here) that the Dominican educational system would be doing a great favor to its students if it prioritized individual work over doing work for each other and critical thought over regurgitating authorities’ thoughts, this system is not going to change any time soon, and in the meantime it is still the system these girls have to navigate in order to succeed. In their society, success isn’t based on individual merit the way it is in the U.S., thus encouraging them to work individually could actually hurt them! By relying on their friends and family to do their school work, they are essentially practicing for their real work, in which they will one day also need to rely on networking and personal relationships to succeed.

 Got Heart

by Hannah Feintuch (George Washington University)


Santiago is called the City of Heart, la ciudad de Corazón, but before this weekend, I didn’t really feel that Santiago had all that much “heart.” Of course my host family and professors are incredibly nice, but it wasn’t until I stepped away from the neighborhood where I live and stepped onto the unpaved roads of a barrio called Cienfuegos that I felt it—warmth, community and neighborly love. Cienfuegos isn’t really where I expected to find it. The barrio is known to be one of the poorest and most unsafe areas in Santiago with high unemployment rates and a high number of less-educated residents. I wet for a class assignment, and I asked the maid in my house if she would be my guide. In most middle class families, it’s typical to have a worker who either lives in the house or apartment or comes daily to cook and clean. Carolina is 22, and even though works every day for my host mom, she’s really part of the family.  She agreed to take a few of my friends and me to the barrio and to show us around the neighborhood where her real family lives. 

            It was amazing how quickly the landscape around us changed when the taxi dropped us off in Cienfuegos. Suddenly streets were unpaved, sewer water ran along the sides of the roads, and people were everywhere. I watched kids playing on parked motorcycles, “flying” kites made of plastic bags and string, and climbing trees.  Houses here were no longer apartment buildings with underground car garages but small and dilapidated wooden and tin homes. The view from one of the highest points in the barrio was beautiful but included rising smoke from a nearby dump where trash is burnt.  The scenery itself was a jolt for me, but what surprised me more was the people that I met.

            It didn’t take long before we attracted the attention of some kids who promptly took our hands and told us they wanted to show us their houses. Not knowing what to do, we awkwardly followed. What would their parents say when a group of strangers showed up at their door with their six year old? The answer? “Come in! Please sit down.” Unlike anything I’ve experienced in the US, perfect strangers welcomed us into their homes. When we arrived at Carolina’s house, we were shown the same hospitality. Family members were sent running to buy us first Coke and cookies and then beer. Our cups were never even half empty before they were re-filled, and her family pulled up plastic chairs to ask us what we thought of the country. After chatting and dancing merengue (her brother challenged me to show off my moves), they arranged for a car to take us home—but only with the promise to return for a meal.

            I wouldn’t have thought that I could feel so at home in a house lit by a bare bulb and surrounded by grazing chickens and lazy stray dogs. If I were hadn’t studied societal problems in the DR, I probably would have used this experience as motivation to try to make things better according to my standards. Unfortunately, now that I better understand the system, I realize that in the next two months there is nothing I can do to improve Cienfuegos. I cannot give them reliable electricity or running water or pave their roads. The things that I could give them—a flatscreen tv or internet may in fact do more harm than good. My gifts might ostracize the family from their community or put them at risk for crime. I realize that helping a community or family is complicated. So instead I’m trying to better myself-- to use the people I met there as inspiration to be warmer, friendlier and more open. To remember that my afternoon in Cienfuegos reminded me of how fortunate I am, not only to have a reliable roof over my head but also to have the opportunity to learn from people of different backgrounds –people who really and truly have heart.




How Time Flies

Orientation @ Casa Club, Jarabacoa

It's hard to believe an entire month has passed since our spring semester started.  I recently took over the position as the Resident Coordinator for CIEE Santiago Liberal Arts, and have found the months rapidly passing by.  I heard this sentiment repeated by our students as they reflected on their first month in the country in last week's final orientation activity.

It is my sincerest hope that the next three months are full of the most impactful and positive traveling experiences that these our students have had in their lives.  With our new list of 25 Retos (Challenges) along with the various co-pay trips, rural work retreats, and the classic three-day excursions, I'm positive the students participating in this semester abroad will have a chance to get their fill of all the Dominican Republic has to offer.  As a former CIEE participant, I personally know that one of the most unexpected challenges can be finding time for one's self amidst the hustle and bustle of Caribbean life.  As the moments pass by, I encourage all to step back and take in their surroundings and appreciate the remarkable vibrance of island life.  Here's to an eye-opening, reflection-filled semester!